![]() ![]() So far the car has been running great, and hopefully I'll just run this set of fluid for the second half of the car's life.Īlso worth noting that a fair bit of fluid stays in there no matter what, so by the time the overflow starts the fluid will look a bit wonky. Previously I was using the OEM "beer" fluid but was tired of chasing it down as well as the cost. With my 2001 1.8T sedan I did a fluid/filter change at 135K miles, and I went with Max Life as mentioned above (red). Not sure if that is true, but with all my issues and fluid changes I've never noticed that type of smell. I asked the transmission guy about the burnt smell, and he said that isn't really a thing anymore with the synthetic fluids. I decided to go for a used transmission swap, and so far the car has been running really well. Slipping in 3rd gear, slow engagement into P or R, and lots of bouncing into limp mode. With my 2002 1.8T wagon I hit the pan on a steep gravel driveway and the fluid leaked, but by the time I figured it out and had it refilled the damage was done. Posting my experience here fwiw since I've spent a lot of quality time with these fluid changes. ![]() 14738 sitting in my kitchen by my front door (the reason my ex-wife wanted -a says "only for russia and turkey" right on the bottle. I haven't used this source yet because I have about 7 liters of Febi-Bilstien Nr. $104.00 gets you about 6 gallons of it in a box kinda like a box of wine, and when you wait too long to change it, it turns into a box of "whine". Inexpensive fluid that meets specifications is available from Safety Clean, I think it was, I will update that info later here if I am mistaken. I still have to take a look inside the screen/filter. I see no metallic bits in mine (yet), and it smells only a little stronger than the new fluid I have on hand. Metallic sludge like stuff on the magnets tends to be just bits of the ferrous driven rings that slowly wear down when the transmission does transmissiony things like transmissions do. If it is even slightly metallic or gritty and not on the magnets, like metal flake paint, that means it's non-magnetic and probably aluminum, that points out that you really should rebuild it. It's what is stuck to the magnets and lying in the bottom of the pan after you take it down that can be most telling. The fluid is clear, but the color is brown like root beer. Add on increased volatility when heated and it's obvious life-time fluid is a myth to sell you a new car or a new transmissionĬlick to expand.I'm in the process of doing one right now. ![]() Take the fact that you can smell it and realize in order to smell it that itty bitty particles of it have to go up into your nose and come into contact with your olfactory bulb up in your head between your eyes. The lifetime fluid stuff is a myth unless you find out the hard way that your transmission get's roasted when your transmission fluid wears out, yeah.lifetime fluid.They claim it's not volatile too (evaporates), but if it wasn't, you wouldn't be able to smell it. If mixing was an issue the manufacturers would recommend you flush the old fluid out of your TC when you change the fluid and filter for warranty reasons. Different brands of fluid can be mixed as long as these fluids are as specified by SPECIFICATION NUMBER REGARDLESS OF COLOR. Just go until you find the ZF website and download the correct info yourself. I tried to find a link to the PDF on the website, but my computer and my phone are acting up right now. Go to the ZF website and look it up yourself, because most auto parts stores are more out to sell you anything they can, or they just don't know or care or have bad info. What matters is if it specifies that it is recommended for a ZF 5hp19 (or whatever specific transmission you might have) transmission. A lot of other producers make all sorts of colors, but color doesn't matter. Click to expand.The actual OEM fluid from the dealership is about the color of a light beer. ![]()
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